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So You Want A Knife ...

POSTED: 11:33 am PDT April 5, 2004

    Q: What's the difference between kosher salt and regular iodized? I know lots of other kosher rules regarding the preparation of meat and dairy, but this one has me stumped. -- Jean Krewson

A: Kosher salt is PURE salt. Iodine, to some palates, can add a bitter flavor to some dishes. Also, kosher salt is in the form of flakes, rather than granules, and thus it is far superior for sprinkling on meats about to be grilled or anywhere you want that salt flavor to enhance other tastes. Far from being overpowering, you'll find it brings out tastes you'd never known existed. It's a must-have for any pantry.

One note: since it is in flake form, if you're substituting in recipes use ½ again as much as the recipe calls for of table salt.

Also, kosher salt is generally not recommended for cold solutions, such as pickle brines, since it doesn't dissolve as readily as granular salt. If the brine is heated first, as for a turkey brine, feel free to use kosher.

    Q: Can you please tell me the correct way to cook both angel hair spaghetti and regular spaghetti noodles? Mine always come out mushy. Also, is there a way to cook them before guests arrive, so that they won't dry out and get stuck together? Thank you! -- Judy Godshall

A: Mushy pasta most often comes from an overlong cooking process. The mistake many cooks make is not using enough water. You want enough water that it will return to a boil very quickly after adding the noodles. Every second the water isn't boiling, your pasta is getting toward mushiness.

As far as cooking your pasta ahead of time ... it's really always best fresh-cooked. Why not put your pot of water on and bring it to a near-boil, then crank the heat and cook the pasta just before dinnertime? Your guests will appreciate the small extra effort it takes to bring their noodles fresh to the table!

If you MUST cook ahead of time, remove the pasta from the water while it's slightly undercooked. Drain it well and rinse VERY briefly, then toss with a bit of olive oil to keep it from sticking together. Keep tightly covered in an oven-proof dish in a warm oven until serving time.

    Q: Just what is the difference between chives and green onions, scallions and shallots? When you get sour cream and chives, it is usually the green part of the green onions. Can they be used all the same? -- Tere

A: This reminds me of that old "Sesame Street" game, where one of the objects is not like the others.

Green onions and scallions, for all practical purposes, are one and the same. There IS an onion relative specifically called a scallion, but what you'll most often find sold as scallions are simply immature white or yellow onions. The green tops of these are, in fact, often used as "chives," especially by thrifty restaurateurs looking to minimize waste. Chives are an onion relative, with a mild oniony flavor. They also make GREAT cat greens if you've got a feline in the house.

Shallots are the odd man out here. While they DO have the aforementioned oniony flavor, it's a more buttery, rich taste. Also, the bulb is formed much like a garlic fist, with internal skins separating segments. They are available dry, like garlic, year-round. Store them as you would garlic, in a cool, well-ventilated place.

    Q: I am just getting interested in cooking (I am 45) and I have been looking at expensive knives and am having some fun. Do you recommend an 8-inch or 10-inch chef's knife as a starter. Also, what about the santoku option to start with? -- Larry Carpenter

A: While I'm a firm believer in using quality tools, there is just flat no need to spend a small fortune on a chef's knife. My blade of choice is an 8-inch Henckels that cost me about $80. The balance is perfect and the handle is wide enough to give me a comfortable grip.

One thing to look for is the construction. Is the knife a full-tang model? That means the blade goes all the way through the handle, which is secured directly to the metal. Those will be far more durable in the long run. Also, is the blade made of good steel? If it's 440 stainless, you're in good shape.

Santoku knives are pretty steep, but they're made of harder steel and hold an edge longer. If you've got the dough, by all means invest in one. Before you let any knife man sharpen it for you, make sure he knows and has handled them before.

The one "trendy" blade I do NOT recommend is the ceramic one. Yes, they're insanely sharp and hold their edges almost indefinitely, but they are notoriously brittle. The first time you drop your expensive ceramic knife on a hard surface, you may just convert it (as Alton Brown did) into the world's most expensive letter opener.

    Q: How can I incorporate flax seed in my diet? Can you tell me its value in diets.

A: Flax seed, because of its high levels of omega-3 fatty acids, is a hot commodity right now. It also contains several essential nutrients including calcium, iron, niacin, phosphorous and vitamin E.

The seeds have a nutty flavor and can be used sprinkled over hot dishes, like stir-fry, or on hot cereals like oatmeal or grits. Be careful not to overuse them, or they can take over the flavor of your dish.

Got a question for Ask The Cook? A quandary? A poser, even? Drop me a line and we'll find the answers together!



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